A Guide to playing Apatosaurus from a player with over 450 hours as one. How to survive from a newly hatched baby all the way to an adult, including what you eat, defensive strategies, and common Talent builds.
Other Beasts of Bermuda Guides:
- Guide to Mosasaurus.
- All Semi-Aquatic and Marine Tunnels Guide.
Food and When You Can Eat It
This section will cover the edible foliage in the game, and what size minimum you need to be eat them. It will start from the smallest foliage, to the largest. Not every plant on the map is edible, and I too often see baby apatos trying to eat the inedible plants that are generated with the ground textures.
At each age I will list what you can now eat, and you can continue to eat the food that is for smaller sizes.
Fresh hatched from a bred egg.
At this age, you are very limited in what you can eat. Your available food is the thin-leaved ferns like the ones pictured above.
If you were hatched in a more tropical area, the ‘sea ferns’ are also edible at this age.
At this age, you can begin to eat larger ferns like the ones pictured above. They are often found in the same area as the ones you can eat at 0.1, so they should be available for you once you hit the right age to eat them.
You can also begin eating the small Banana Plants if you have any around you or your parents chose to nest you in a more tropical section of the map.
These ‘sea palms’ are also available to eat now. They are most often found near the coast.
Fresh spawn from the spawn menu.
You may now begin eating the brighter green plants you find around the map. These seem less common than ferns or banana plants, but they still can be found reguarly. They are found more often in the tropical areas of the map with Banana Plants
You can now begin eating trees. Not all trees are edible, some along the coast that are not pine trees appear to be inedible.
If you are attacked, your first strategy is to get yourself in as defensive a location as possible. The bets defensive location is one that protects your front and sides and forces predators to only approach you from the rear, where your tail is.
Here are examples of varying degrees of defensive protection:
1. Full Protection
This is the best defense, in my experience. And it is one reason why my Apato lives near mountain lakes. You can make note of places like this that will help you defend, and if a big predator is around you can head towards it and fend them off. You will last a lot longer than they will on Food and Water as well, so they’ll starve before you do.
But in this position, predators have to approach from behind you, directly into your tail whip. If they climb up and come down, they will break their legs or die immediately from injury. If they try to climb up the front, they risk falling or getting stomped by you, and they can’t climb up from the side due to the steep slope.
2. Partial Protection
This is not as protected as the first, but still good. Your front is more exposed than you’d like, but you also have a chance to knock anyone approaching from the front off the cliff with Knockback, breaking their legs or killing them. Your back is protected by your tail and the thin ledge.
3. Meager Protection
If you are caught in the open, you want to at least get your front up against a cliff. You will have to turn a lot more to keep your tail facing the enemy, but the cliff will help keep them boxed more to one side so you can keep them at bay.
4. No Protection
If you are caught completely in the open, you can still survive but it is a lot more tricky and relies on your skill as an apato and the skill of the predator(s) attacking you.
Your best bet is to use your tail. Stomps are slow and easily dodged unless it is a big rex that didn’t go into speed. If you have Improved Stomp it will help you and you can use it more often, but if you do not you risk using all your Ability Power with stomping and then be unable to fight more.
If it is one enemy, you should be okay. Just keep turning your back on them to keep your tail pointing. Remember you can swing your tail all the way to your sides if you angle your camera correctly. Do not hold your tail in its charge, this will deplete your Ability Power. Swipe when a predator is in range.
If it is multiple enemies, you will be harder pressed to defend yourself, especially if they take turns running in at you. Do your best to tail swipe them as they attack, or stomp them, to reduce their numbers. They might back off once one of their pack is killed.
You have a variety of attacks at your disposal, many of them quite strong and can cripple or kill an enemy in one hit.
Your stomp is a very powerful attack, easily your most powerful. It can insta-kill almost any predator, only things that can survive are very large predators, but even they will be crippled from the hit, making them slower and easier to finish off. You can increase how fast it deals damage and reduce how much Ability Power it uses with the Improved Stomp ability, as well as the Damage Increase Talent.
2. Tail Whip
Your tail whip is your go-to attack usually. As long as you can keep your tail angled at a predator, you can whip them as they come in to bite you. It applies knockback that can add more damage from the fall. You can charge your tali whip and deal more damage, but if you charge it too soon or too long you will drain your Ability Power so it takes a bit of practice on when to charge and when to just whip.
3. Knock Back
This is a passive ability, but you can increase its effectiveness with Batter Talent in the Combat Tree. Anything that runs into your legs, front or back, is going to be sent flying. The smaller something is, the farther it will fly. This applies to friends and enemies.
Another passive ability. You provide a lot of Intimidation to predators around you, and the Intimidation Talent will increase its effectiveness. What this does is apply a negative debuff to the predator, which begins reducing their comfort while they are around you. The greater your Intimidation, the faster their comfort will drop. If it gets too low they will begin taking damage from it, and have to retreat out of your Intimidation range in order to recover.
There are three main trees, each with skills associated with that type. Combat (Red), Survival (Blue), and Mobility (Green). Each tree contains 10 talents, that can be invested in up to 3 points manually, and can go up to 5 points through the use of inherited talents and breeding.
You must have points in the previous Talent on a tier before you can take a next one, and you must upgrade the previous Talent before you can upgrade the next one. For example, if you want 3/3 Health Upgrade, you have to have 3/3 out of the Talents on the ‘branch’ that lead up to it (Looking at the above picture, those would be Ability Power, Batter and Bruiser).
This is mostly up to you, and what you want with your Apato. I’ve seen all kinds of Talent builds, and tried a fair few myself.
- There are pure Combat builds, which are good at defense and health but might suffer from water loss and lack of water when the lakes run dry.
- There are pure Survival builds, which focus on Food and Water drain rates and Comfort. You also provide more Comfort to herdmates and can even provide Weather shelter to them at the highest Survival tier talent. This is a good support build for a Apato that intends to always be around others
- Mobility builds are not commonly seen, but they are there. Speed increases isn’t very noticeable on Apato, but they do make a bit of a difference. I dont usually use them, because the speed increase doesn’t really make it so you can run away, though the Strong Legs ability is quite nice, as is Stamina increase
- Mixed builds. I see a lot of Combat-Survival builds, such as the one I use that I will detail below. I’ve also seen Combat-Mobility here and there.
I, personally, start in Survival (Blue) and then go to Combat (Red). I don’t do much in the Mobility Tree (Green).
Here is my personal build that I use:
I do 3/3 weather, 3/3 Water Longevity, 1 in each Food Longevity and Botanist, and then I go into the Combat Tree.
I choose those Survival Talents because:
- Weather Resist: Apatos are vulnerable to Lightning, so I get 3/3 Weather.
- Water Longevity: Water can sometimes be very scarce to find, especially if it hasn’t rained in a while, so I go 3/3 Water Longevity.
- Food Longevity: Food is relatively easy to get, but I like to at least put 1 Point in it.
- Botanist: Botanist increases how much food you get per plant, so I like to have at least 1 point in it.
After SUrvival, I go into Combat. I prioritize getting 1 point in each one, then going back and doing 2 points, then 3, and so on. I value Improved Stomp over Improved Tailwhip, so I often just do 1 point in Improved Tailwhip, and only 1 in Healing for now.
I consider vital Combat Talents to be Ability Power, Batter, Health, Damage and Improved Stomp, because:
- Ability Power: This is how much you can stomp or tail whip before you run out, so more is better.
- Batter: How much Knockback you do can affect how easily you kill a predator, so the farther you fling them, the better.
- Health: Pretty self-explanatory, the more health you have, the harder you will be to kill.
- Damage: Also self-explanatory, the more damage you deal, the better you will be at defending yourself.
- Improved Stomp: Some don’t take this, but I like it. It makes your stomp deal damage faster, so predators that try to run in, bite, and run away will end up stomped instead of getting away.
Cliffs can be an Apato’s best friend, especially when a large predator is about. But many Apatos are afraid of cliffs and the fall damage that can so easily kill their dino.
Here i will try to soothe those worries and show how you can climb up and down cliffs without dying, and it is all in the color of the ground beneath your feet.
In the picture above, I sit on the side of a cliff. There are several ways to get down from here, and i’ve marked them out below:
If the rock is dirt-brown, then it is most likely safe enough to walk up and down without worrying about slipping. This is doubly so if it has plants growing upon it.
Now, if the rock is stone-grey, it is far too steep and you’d likely be unable to climb up and end up falling if you climb down.
This does take a bit of practice and experience to tell what is safe and what is not, but these are pretty safe basics to get you started on it. I can usually tell just by looking on if something is safe to climb up / down, but I’ve had a lot of experience in cliff-climbing as well.
There are several carnivores in the game that are a threat to you, but as you get older their threat also decreases, though some will stay a threat no matter your age, but you’ll be less likely to be their target.
Rexes are a big threat to you at all ages, for they have a lot of health and a lot of damage, and they move fairly fast even when walking.
Depending on the size of the rex compared to you, it might be a lost cause. If it’s a big rex and you are a small Apato, odds are they are going to be able to facetank any damage you do and kill you.
Now if it is more of a equal size, you stand a fair chance of killing the rex before it can kill you. A stomp will cripple them with Injury, slowing them down drastically, or several tail whips can damage them enough to force a retreat or risk death.
You can apply knockback as well if you are on a hill or cliff, and can potentially kill them if they fall far enough. Being in a group will assist you in defending yourself against a big rex as well.
This is one of your biggest threats. Their Bleed is specifically geared to fighting Apatos, and they rely on hit and run attacks to wear you down over time. The Clotting ability will assist you in healing their Bleed faster and making it less effective.
I find Tail Whips work better than Stomps on Acros, since they tend to move swiftly and avoid being in the range of Stomp. Keep your tail aimed at them, and whip when they come in to bite.
One Megalo, I am not worried about, unless it is very big and I am a very small Apato. Singly, a Megalo will have a lot of trouble solo’ing a Apato as big as it is or bigger. Your Intimidation will also be very effective on them, and Knockback can cripple them if htey fall far enough. They will often die in a single hit, or two at most, unless they have a lot of Health talents.
However, in a pack, it is a bit of a different story. They can take turns running in to attack you, and swap out if one gets too wounded. Rather than focusing on them all, focus on the ones that are closest to you, but we aware they might feint to try and get you to waste attacks and drain your Ability Power.
Fighting a group of Predators can take some practice, as it is a lot of experience and knowing when to turn to face them and when to attack.
Aquatics are mostly a threat if you are a young Apato, and if you go too near the water or even attempt to swim. It is inadvisable to swim as an Apato, since you are very slow in water and the Comfort damage alone will be enough to risk your health. Add in a large Aquatic or group of Aquatics, and your Apato is basically a free snack since they can avoid your tail whip and just sit below you and bite your legs.
Apato Tips and Tricks
Here are some useful things I’ve learned:
- Do not 3 call when in a fight. The animation takes too long, and it puts your head close to the ground in biting reach. You don’t want to do something that’ll prevent you from defending yourself.
- As a young apato, it is very difficult to get full food. Do not worry, you will be okay even if you cannot keep your food at max.
- Be cautious of rocks when going downhill, if you fall off one while going downhill you risk fall damage.
- Going uphill backwards can often be faster than going up forwards, though I don’t do it myself because it looks silly.
- You can back up with CTRL. Press CTRL to go stop and go forwards again.
- You can eat food other herbivores drop. Some Paras and Lurdus enjoy feeding Apato babies and will bring food for you.
- Aquatic plants like Seaweed and Kelp will give you food poisoning, avoid them since you have plenty of other food to eat. If you do get food poisoning, yellow dandelions and crystals can cure it, otherwise your herd comfort boost will help you survive the discomfort it causes.